Lurid San Andres Xecul

A wildly painted church & Maximon

Sordid and appealing in bright mustard yellow San Andres Xecul’s colonial church stands out in a country known for vivid colors. The clothing of saints and angels are a vibrant blue with an intense red highlighting the trim and flowers. Only in Guatemala would these colors not seem gaudy. San Andres Xecul is a small Mayan village situated in the mountains surrounded by agricultural fields of mostly corn. Like all mountain villages it is built on the side of the mountain, which requires hiking up and down steep grades. Who would have thought that visiting a church is an exercise activity?

In contrast, the inside of the church is dark, painted in a subdued light yellow, with spot lighting on the statue of the saints and natural lighting penetrating through round windows in the ceiling. A lingering smell of ages of burning candles and incense overwhelms one as you enter the church. When I visited, there were a dozen Mayan women devotees kneeing on the slate rock floor behind the alter praying aloud the rosary. I didn’t see them initially and only heard what I believed to be murmuring sounds emulating from the alter. I thought I was having a premonition or vision. I was delighted it was an explainable phenomena. Looking out from inside the church you see the rest of San Andres sitting on the green mountain. I’m hiking up the hill in pursuit of another Maximon shrine.

Church in San Andres Xecul

The light changes & so do the colors, they become brighter

Close up of the church facade

Love that blue robe: where can I get one?

Do you see the Mayan women praying to the left of the alter?

(click on the photo to enlarge)

Up that mountain somewhere is a shrine to Maximon, let's go find it

After a taxing and invigorating trek through narrow, serpentine walkways and unmarked trails, I discovered the home of Maximon (or San Simon in Spanish). A local guide lead the way or I would never have found it. Next to the one bedroom 10 x 10 foot house was an ancient looking nine foot crumbling adobe wall with a roof and two sides open to the outdoors. A smoldering fire of wood and charcoal embers against the adobe wall gave off pungent smoke that penetrated my nose and eyes. A Mayan “priest” dropped copal incense into the fire. He performed a ritual imploring Maximon for protection, guidance, and assistance for a seated young Mayan man in his early twenties getting ready for the dangerous long journey to illegally enter the United States. The ceremony was being conducted in Quiche Maya. I heard the Mayan priest say “United States” in Spanish a couple of times in his liturgy.

The Mayan shaman was standing. His hands were cupped and turned upwards, and arms stretched out and lifted above his head towards the heavens as he chanted prayers with his eyes closed. Next to him was a three foot Mayan idol of a head craved out of stone with a candle burning on it and residual melted waxed from past rites completing covering it. The idol looked old, primeval, and timeworn. It’s facial features were barely visible, but distinctly Mayan. On the adobe wall next to the idol was a picture of the Virgin of Guadeloupe, weathered and blackened by the smoke from the charcoal fire. When the shaman completed the rituals I had the opportunity to talk with him. He started by saying, “Please, no photos.” I put away my camera. He openly shared with me what he had done and discussed his religious beliefs.

I asked him about the picture of the “Virgin”. He said he “honors her and accepts her as a saint.” I asked if he accepts Christianity as a religion. He said he accepts all “forms and paths to the gods.” Also, that Maximon is an intermediary who “only performs positive interventions, and does not do anything bad.” He only helps those in need. The shaman told me that he was also a traveler and not from this area. He knew nothing about the shrine to Maximon next door, and that I would have to ask the owner of the home for details. He was there only to help the young man prepare for his long trip and would leave soon. He told me that before the 1980s, “He and Mayans were not allowed to openly perform these rituals. It was all done secretly. After the 1980 law, they could perform Mayan spiritual rituals openly.” I thanked him for his time and opportunity to learn from him. He asked where I was from. I told him. He wished me “have a good, safe trip”, and left with the young man.

After paying 15 quetzals (less than $2.00 dollars) entrance fee, that allowed me to take unlimited photographs, I could enter the one room house where Maximon “resides”. Before visiting the idol, I spoke with the owner. He told me he was not a shaman or Mayan priest. He said he “was only the caretaker.” He freely shared with he know about Maximon. The caretaker said Maximon is over 150 years old. He believes that Maximon was a former resident of San Andres Xecul, who performed good deeds and helped people. When he died, the villagers decided to honor him by constructing an idol in his image made of corn stock, leaves, stems, and husks. The idol I was about to visit is only a representation and is refurbished when needed. Each October the village commemorates Maximon with a celebration to honor and give thanks for his protection and intercessions.

The caretaker said that, “Maximon is a saint of both Christianity and Mayan beliefs.” People from all over the world come and ask for “Maximon’s help with cures for aliments that can’t be cured by other means. They ask him for help in planting crops and for a good harvest, for good health, and improvements in relationships.” He said that the local priest does not acknowledge Maximon as a Christian saint, but does not interfere or complain about Catholic Mayans visiting, commemorating, or celebrating the idol’s contributions in helping the village. The owner of the house said he was a Catholic, believes in its doctrines, that there’s only one God, and goes to church. Also, he believes that Maximon can intercede through Jesus Christ in helping people. He mentioned that even “born again” evangelical Christians come and ask for help from the idol. 

I entered Maximon’s room. It was lighted in yellow and red hues. He was dressed in a cowboy hat and boots. There was an unlit cigar in his mouth. Areas were set aside where people could light candles, deposit money for petitions, and leave offerings of alcohol or cigars. A picture of the “Virgin” was on the wall to the right of the idol’s chair. In addition there were two smaller size Maximons. Perhaps his children? There was a bed next to where the idol was sitting and holding court. Later, I asked the caretaker about the bed, and he said, “Maximon retires each evening at 7:00 PM in the bed, and get’s up at 7:00 AM to visit with the public.” The caretaker was vague about whether Maximon had help getting in and out of bed. The belief in this Maximon was less dogmatic than in Zunil. It also was less commercial. The caretaker was more forthcoming with admitting that there were things he didn’t know, and that his beliefs were based on village tradition. At least the idol looked Latino. 

Maximon: Are those his sons in the foreground?

Maximon gracious enough to take a photo with Manny de

I ended my visit by thanking the caretaker for sharing with me what he knew. He thanked me for coming and wished me a safe return to my country. I think I’ll end my investigation of this fascinating idol and prepare to leave Guatemala. Our next destination is Honduras. We’ll venture into less visited areas, off the beaten track, and explore areas that see few foreign travelers. 

Thank you San Andres Xecul: A complete visit - history, art,

religion, trekking, investigating idols, meeting unusual people

Somethings missing? Food, ended the day eating authentic 

Italian chicken raviolis. Maximon would of approved. They were delicious.