The dark blue Atlantic Ocean was on my left side, green banana plantations extended to the horizon on my right. I rode a minibus with fourteen people from Cartagena to Santa Marta, down the Caribbean coast. It took us three and a half hours. We passed swampy marches full of gray and brown ducks, white egrets, and small black and puffy white birds. Periodically, there were poor subsistence fishing villages of dark skin people. As we approached Santa Marta, the snow white capped Sierra Nevada Mountains dominated the landscape. In some areas the mountains went right down to the water line.
Food vendors hop on buses during stops and sell a variety of munchies
Most of the coast is wetlands
Simple shack where people live in a fishing village along the coast
My hostel was located two blocks from a new indoor, air conditioned modern shopping mall - Buenavista Centro. Since Santa Marta is hot and humid like Cartagena, I went to the mall to check it out and enjoy the cool air. There was a Juan Valdez Cafe that sold blended ice coffee drinks. I had to have one. It was as good as a frappuccino from Starbucks at a third of the price. The humidity causes a constant thirst no matter how much water, fruit juices, or cold blended coffees I drink. I’m in a perpetual sweat.
Desserts are also available at the Buenavista Centro mall
(Yes, had a piece and it was yummy)
A family of seven Tayrona indigenous people were walking hand in hand in the mall. All were dressed in white hand woven tunics that were four or five inches above the ankle and dark brown leather sandals. The only male, probably the father, was wearing white baggy pajama like pants under his tunic. He had a white and brown horizontal stripped woven messenger bag over his neck and across his front body. All had long, straight shinny black hair. They were captivated by the window displays of mannequins wearing tight jeans and different colored T-shirts.
Museum depiction of Tayrona (or Tairona) indigenous people
Santa Marta is a busy Colombian port. The main beach where the town begins is littered with debris from shipping traffic. While in Santa Marta the national soccer team beat Chile on its way to the World Cup elimination rounds. The team was behind 1 - 0, for most of the game, and staged a late comeback to win 1 - 3. Colombians, like most Latin Americans are passionate about “futbol”. The whole town erupted in celebration. People everywhere were dressed in the banana yellow jersey of the team. Cars were driving around honking horns. People were shouting, “Viva Colombia! . . . Viva Colombia!” The party lasted all night.
Container traffic at the busy Santa Marta port
Main beach with Sierra Nevada mountains in the background
It maybe old and rusty, but it still floats
It seems that after decades of narco-traffic violence, guerilla warfare, and the depression and delirium that comes from living in a society full of indiscriminate violence, Colombians were ready to release pent up joy and happiness. It’s a watershed moment. Colombians are experiencing real pleasure and jubilation. They’re exercising out of their body politic depression, fear, and disappointment by expressing pride in being Colombian. This sports victory goes beyond soccer. It signals a uniting of all levels of society, a genuine feeling of belonging to a bigger community - the Colombian society.
Museum guard erupts with joy after soccer team scores a goal
(Note the small TV atop a display of priceless artifacts from antiquity)
Conquistador Jimenez Quesada began his conquest of Colombia from Santa Marta. The great Liberator of South America Simon Bolivar ended his in Santa Marta. Next we’ll investigate what Santa Marta remembers of these two historic figures.
Liberator Simon Bolivar died in Santa Marta
Jimenez Quesada began his march to fame in Santa Marta
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