10,000 years ago, deep in a remote uninhabited Amazonian jungle*

Samaípata, Bolivia

“Watch out! Don’t step there, that gray snake with red X's on its back is deadly and its bite will kill you!” yells Panko.

In a hasty, weak voice I respond: “I’m trying to hurry! I can hear the jaguar tiger pursing us through the jungle. Did you hear those twigs cracking? It’s very near!

Excited, Panko warns, “My weapon is not enough to stop it. I’ll need your help. If I see it coming and have time to aim, we have a chance. If it gets into the trees and pounces on us from above, we’re dead!”

As I struggle to keep up with Panko, I note, “Look up ahead. How strange? It’s a mighty wall of rock with no trees. Let’s climb it. We can see the jaguar coming from there. I’ve never seen anything like it in the jungle. It’s a gift from the gods and goddesses who are protecting us. We might survive. We must make an offering in veneration and gratitude.”

Panko heads for the tower of stone, “We’ll stay here tonight. It’s too dangerous to be traveling in the forest now that sun-god has set and darkness has filled our world.”

Mountains & jungle where Samaípata is located

Narrow dirt rode winding to the ruins, 
with village of Samaípata in the background

Ancient wall of carved rock, Samaípata (also named El Fuerte, the fortress); 

weather beaten ruins still drawing pilgrims from all parts of the world

We camped for the night, taking turns maintaining a vigilant watch. During my midnight shift, I see a black shadow dashing below. It stops. It’s piercing dark emerald eyes sparkled in the moonlight. Its glistening shinny black fur is beautiful. I seize my spear tightly and was about to wake Panko, when the giant black cat smiles, shows its enormous teeth, each as big as my thumb. I freeze. It darts back into the jungle moving like a phantom, something not of this world. My heart beats as if I had been sprinting for my life. My hearing and vision heightened to double what are my normal abilities. I am drenched in sweat, but my mouth and throat are dry and cry out for relief. I’m not a warrior or a very good hunter. My role in the community is to carve images in stone to honor the gods and goddesses that inhabit the spirit world. I must carve on this special rock what I’ve experienced -- the power, mystic of the jaguar, snake, and puma.

* The history and story of how Samaípata was discovered are lost to antiquity. This is an imagined narrative that was experienced and written at the site. When I shared an oral version with local people, some with indigenous royal red blood flowing through their veins, they assured me that it sounded realistic and bearing some “truth”.  A Bolivian woman, Maria Elena, commented, “Had you not told me that you imagined this story, I would of thought that you were telling the actual history."

Carved image of a jaguar from ancient times

Images in the middle running vertical with white oxidation

are the back side of a snake with X's running down its back

Image of a puma carved into the stone by indigenous

artist from the distant past

Stone foundations from residents that housed priests,

with carved niches in the background that contained icons, mummies

of dead rulers, priests, decorated warriors or persons of note

Building on the right was constructed by the Spanish conquistadors

during colonial period when Samaípata served as a fortress (El Fuerte)

Stone dwellings that garrisoned Inca warriors,

then Spanish soldiers

-------------------------------

Thus, 10,000 years ago begins humanities reverence, adoration, and seduction of what became known throughout the Amazonian jungle, the inhospitable plains of the Chaco, and up to the clouds of the Andes -- Samaípata, the holy resting place in the mountains. Tribes of people have come from jungles, dry plains, and across great oceans to leave offerings, to sculpt their visions and pay respect to Mother Nature. Even in today’s modern jaded times, it’s a place of pilgrimage that inspires awe, curiosity, suspicion, joy and even darkness. It fulfills humanities desire for oneness with the natural environment and affirmation that we were once here long ago, and that we will continue to exist as long as we respect the power, spirit, and everlasting gift of Nature.

Hiked trails in the forest surrounding ruins;

yes, there's a trail there, image trying to escape a jaguar

through this jungle

Butterflies are abundant in the forests of Samaípata

There's only one way to exit the ruins;

that's hiking up, & up, & up

View from the citadel of Samaípata

When I touched the rock, I felt positive energy radiate throughout my body. I stepped back and sensed a spark, a charge that calmed me. Before, I was tired, hot, hungry, as I walked away feelings of contentment, eroticism, and inspiration swept over me. There are phenomenon, experiences, understanding that can not be explained by science or religion. They just are. We can not describe in concrete words, we only feel them in our heart and soul. Samaípata is such a place.

Manny de stayed too long at the ruins & was unable 

to find a taxi, so a guide at the ruins offered him

a ride back to the village on his motorcycle

Decorated plaza floor similar to the back of the snake

at the Samaípata ruins

Church located on one side of village plaza

Cobbled stone roadway leading into the village

"Downtown" Samaípata village, a safe, restful place

with temperate climate and cool breezes 

People from the village, sign in back

is offering "lots for sale", if you're interested

Indoor market before closing time

Locals shopping for produce in the outdoor market

Excellent selection of fresh fruits and vegetables

Healthy, fresh salads are edible at "Posada del Sol", 

at $20 a night, including breakfast, a bargain; the staff are 

friendly and "muy amable" (amicable)

Pulled pork burritos, with Texas baked beans;

very tasty (sorry no leftovers)

Main Plaza of village, quite and charming

Flowers in the surrounding area are attractive, just 

watch out for the thorns on the leaves

During one of my hikes, I was almost "crowned" by this branch

I almost picked this flower, except for the "stickers"

Started my day with this hearty breakfast,

(at Posada del Sol)

Ended the day sharing this chocolate delight with

two other travelers (note the three spoons);

not to worry, only had two "small" bites

We've experienced these special places, both the ruins and village of Samaípata. Now it's time to "rough it" and hike the dusty, hot "Ruta de Ché" (Route of Ché), and explore the sites and sounds of Ernesto "Ché" Guevara's final footsteps. Maybe we will encounter his spirit in the mountains where he was killed?