Nonstop Travel

PUBLISHER WARNING: DO NOT attempt this without first having a complete physical and psychological evaluation. We cannot be held liable for any permanent damage that may occur due to fool hearted jaunts.

One train, Two buses, 1,460 miles, Nonstop travel in 29 hours

The bus system in Mexico beats the US, and is probably the best in the world. There are various classes of service to meet your price range, comfort level, or time schedule. The Greyhound it is not. The buses are clean, modern, with most seats comfortable and reclining. Air conditioning is standard. Movies are shown on screens that drop down from the overhead. On some lines, a lunch of a sandwich and choice of drink is included.

First class buses

Bus terminals in major cities and destinations have two categories of bathrooms. The public ones are nasty, without toilet seats, toilet paper, and smell awful. The ones that are offered for a fee -- 4 pesos (about 35 cents, a bargain) -- are spotlessly cleaned, stacked with toilet paper, toilet seat, soap, and hand dryers. Though it is odd to be relieving yourself, while a female attendant constantly cleans stalls, sinks, floor, and replenishes supplies. One can go anywhere, feel safe and usually arrive at the posted time.

After completing a twenty-nine hour, 1,460 mile, nonstop travel odyssey from high in the Sierra Madres, to Morelia, a couple of hours outside of Mexico City, I thought I could handle long distance, extended travel. The journey involved an almost ten hour train ride through Copper Canyon. I enjoyed this part, and will do it again. The rest involved riding buses.

I planned to ride the train from Creel to El Fuerte, the stop before the train’s final destination of Los Mochis, on the Pacific coast. I heard that the small pueblo of El Fuerte held more interest, a maintained colonial era city, with Spanish architecture and flowering gardens, than Los Mochis, an industrial city handling shipping and cargo for western Mexico.

Train station in Creel

Nearing El Fuerte, it became clear we would arrive late at night, and possibly making it difficult to find a hotel room in the small pueblo. Therefore, on the train I decided to continue to Los Mochis, only two hours further. On this leg of the trip, a delay occurred due to El Chepe (tourist train) being stopped to allow the higher priority trains carrying freight to have access to the rails.

I approached the train conductor wanting to buy a ticket for travel to Los Mochis. He responded, “No problem, don’t worry about it. We have room and will take you to Los Mochis. No charge." Wow, this generous offer saved my about $40 dollars. I told him I was in his debt, and thanked him. He answered, “ Glad we’re able to help. We’re here to serve you.”

Outside of the train

The comfortable inside of the train with Manny de

Young vendor selling apples to train passengers

Disembarking the train at Los Mochis, I learned it cost $10 dollars for a taxi into town, probably another $25 to $30 dollars for a hotel room. The same kind train conductor suggested that I take a bus to Matzatlan, for about the same cost, and I would be heading south. He directed me to the ADO bus terminal (taxi $5 dollars), where I could catch a first class bus. Why not? He described Matzatlan as being on the coast, with a beautiful beach, many more hotels and restaurants serving fabulous seafood, than Los Mochis. I’m headed to Matzatlan (bus $36 dollars).

First bus: Los Mochis to Guadalajara

Five and a half hours later, it’s now 4:00 AM, I’m in Matzatlan and wide awake. This is a fifteen minute stop, to allow refueling. I run into the bus station, buy an additional ticket to the buses end destination of Guadalajara, only seven hours. It’s night time, so I plan to sleep on the bus. I’m back on the bus in my same seat, up front behind the bus driver -- a coveted seat. I met Marco, a Mexican who owns property and a small farm in Arizona, going to Morelia to visit his ailing mother. He talks me into continuing through to Morelia, another four to five hours. I stayed two days in Morelia recuperating from the travel.

Second bus: Guadalajara to Morelia

Outskirts of Guadalajara, all just a blur

Lake outside of Morelia: yes, I'm having a hard time focusing, effect of nonstop travel

I’m elated I’ve saved on the cost of a hotel room, by sleeping (or trying to sleep) on the bus.Twenty-nine hours and 1,460 miles later, I complete the nonstop odyssey. Having transversed half the length of Mexico, I thought I could do anything. Although I had a stiff back for two days.  Then, I took a bus from Morelia, through Puebla, onto Oaxaca, a “short” ten hour excursion -- the bus trip from HELL (next installment).