Chile Mole
There are many different types and colors of “mole”. They range from a slightly sweetened, light red mole colorado, to a tangy, mole verde (green), a spicy, milder yellow, and the most complex being a rich, thick almost black, mole negro. I traveled to sample the world famous mole negro. The mixture of cocoa beans, variety of chile peppers, sesame seeds, peanuts, cloves, cinnamon and many more ingredients left me wanting to move to Oaxaca to continue to indulge in this passionate food. The sensation of flavors in my mouth and throat were both savory and sweet, with a sharp tangy hint of spices, and a mild hot.
At the open court, sidewalk restaurant, I asked for the recipe and was told it was not allowed, highly confidential, but that there are local cooking schools that can instruct on how to prepare a similar version. They emphasized their’s “is the best” and no one outside the “family” knew the recipe. I will return for cooking lessons and to again feast and treat my palate to this extraordinary delicacy.
Mole Negro con Pollo (with chicken)
Let's cut into it and see what it tastes like
Oh, you would like this!
When in Oaxaca, you need to try the chocolate,
yes, it was as good as it looks
City of Oaxaca
My main goal in visiting the city of Oaxaca was the mole. The magnificent Zapotec mountain ruins of Monte Alban and Mitla are an easy day trip from the city. I’d visited these ruins previously and recommend exploring them. They remind one of the rich culture and accomplishments that existed in the Americas during the time when “Western” civilization in Europe was struggling in basic dwellings and living lives that were “nasty, brutish, and short”. As inhabitants of the Americas, these achievements are our history and cultural tradition. A legacy that we continue to build on and today lead the world in contributions in technology, science, art, and (unfortunately) warfare, as did the Zapotec’s. Let’s remind ourselves why and how the Zapotec’s declined - degraded the environment, channeled resources away from investing in social betterment into military use, and leaders who fought among themselves for their political gain at the expense of the common good. These factors seem to reflect current trends characterizing my beloved United States.
Oaxaca is a city of many intimate plazas and narrow oneway streets. Colonial arcades surround the plazas, with a center stage, and planted with trees and flowers. The archways house government offices, usually a church, stores and open court restaurants. I ventured to the Plaza Central to eat mole. As usual in many Mexican plazas, there were many people mingling, visiting with each other, buying and eating food from street vendors. The people exhibit strong indigenous features. Many were six to twelve inches shorted than my five feet, eleven inch frame. Both the men and women are very shout, not fat, with black hair. They dress in a mixture of modern, western wear, and handmade, traditional colorful garments.
Plaza Central
Another view
Colonial church on the Plaza
Aztec dancers preparing to perform
Zapotec people
Zapotec men
Zapotec young women
This fellow stood out with his red hair
Oaxaca was the center of violent, social unrest in the summer of 2006. Heated battles occurred between local police and federal forces against a coalition of labor, indigenous, and student groups. Deaths, injuries, and destruction to businesses led to an uneasy truce that exists today. While damages to buildings and property are no longer evident, one still sees an occasion poster, or sprayed graffiti protesting injustices or unresolved grievances.
I had a brief discussion with Berto, the taxi driver who drove me from the bus station, about the situation. His opinion was that things haven’t changed. There’s still as much corruption in government as in the past. Local politicians continue to help themselves and their interests, and not “the people”. He stated: "what the people learned was that the protests, shutdown of streets, and boycotts hurt los pobres (the poor) and local businesses the most. The rich and international businesses continued to make their profits. I could not work, because there were no tourists, and since the streets were blocked, my taxi services were not needed. I don’t know what it’s going to take to change things."
The city of Oaxaca has grown substantially since my visit of twelve years ago. There is now more traffic, people, houses, and associated air pollution. I asked Berto about the growth. He said it was the local population having more babies. He blamed the “churches” preaching anti-birth control and men not wanting a vasectomy, thinking it harms their masculinity. He said he wished people would stop at having only two kids. I asked him how many he had. Berto responded that he had two, but he and his wife are going to have just one more and then stop. He went on to say, “it was ridiculous how much the city has grown, especially over the last ten years, and there’s no stop to it. Oaxaca use to have agricultural fields on the outskirts of the city, now they're gone, replaced with dense housing developments. As you can see, the traffic is horrible and the local government doesn’t do anything to alleviate it.”
"Blood, Hurt, and Death"
"Legacy of U. Ruiz (former governor) and the PRI (party in power, over 40 year)"
"Justice and Peace with Dignity"
While at the Plaza Central, there was a cultural celebration of the different dances of Mexico. Aztec dancers were dancing barefoot when it began to rain. They continued their dancing, burning copal incense, and blowing a conch shell horn. The smoldering smoke from the tree resin, mixed with fresh rain, wet cement, and human sweat was a bit overwhelming, but very exciting. I was in the middle and ignored as other dancers, from different regions, changed and dressed into traditional clothing -- white pants and dresses, highlighted with purple, pink, blue scarves -- and prepared for their performance. There were a few foreigners in the crowd, but the majority were local people and Mexican tourist celebrating their rich culture, and making sure it was being kept alive and passed on to the next generation.
Aztec dancers starting their performance
Danced right through the rain
We enjoyed the performance from under the arcade
Other dancers rushed to prepare for their performance
No one cared the "gringo" was there
It's our turn
Other dancers preparing. This icon was used in their ritual dancing.
Oaxaca earns its designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site with its striking baroque colonial architecture, combined with the vivid, living culture of its Zapotec people. Ancient ruins, complex food, and naturally beautiful, red landscape make this a must visit area if we truly want to wear the label of “Americans” or people of the “Americas”. I’ll be back.
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