Traveling to a Natural Wonder of the World

Iguazú Falls, Argentina

Wow! What a ride . . . . Non-stop 24 plus hours on the road, three different buses, one broken air conditioner while traveling through the Gran Chaco the hottest place in Argentina, a blazing 105 degrees (sweltering and sweaty in the bus), three increasingly angry complaints about the lack of air conditioning, one fierce argument with the bus driver, one threat to throw me off the bus at the next stop to wait 24 hours for the next transport, followed by one derogatory shout of “Gringo!”, one cocaine bust at 2 o’clock in the morning, zero (that’s zero!) toilet paper in the bus bathroom, no bowel movements, two foul meals of stale bread, warm ham and cheese sandwiches with mayonnaise, three hot coca colas, one lost writing pen, no sleep, no water, no “first-class” service . . . . and then . . . reaching Iguazú Falls, a natural wonder of the world. All is understood, forgotten, and accepted as the penance paid for experiencing the Goddess’s paradise on earth.

Bus (& bus driver with tie) with broken air conditioner, looks are deceiving

Traveling through the Gran Chaco

I lack the words to describe the magnificent cascade of rushing water, so here are the photos:

Iguazú Falls from a distance; lets get closer

Near the top

At the top of the Falls

It started raining & I had this area of the Falls to myself

Looking over the Falls, be careful, you might fall!

Climbing down to get a ground level view

From the ground looking up

A Coatis: they look cute but be careful

They can be dangerous when hungry

They are wild animals (doing the "wild thing")

Wild orchids are abundant

There are a variety of tropical flowers surrounding the Falls

The power and majesty of Iguazú Falls: A natural Wonder of the World

Cocaine Bust

The bus is stopped at 2:00 AM, everyone is escorted off the bus and identifications are checked. We board the bus. The National Police search the baggage compartment in the belly of the bus. They discover a large black suitcase without a number. All check-in luggage is tagged with a number to retrieve when getting off the bus. The police open the bag and discover several plastic wrapped bricks of processed cocaine. They celebrate and immediately call their superior on a cell phone to report their accomplishment and await orders. After a lengthy discussion with the bus driver and his assistant, the police board the bus.

Busted: cocaine bricks on the ground, note black suitcase under truck,

bus driver & assistant answering questions

Bus driver pleading to let the bus continue on its journey

They wave the empty suitcase and ask, “Who is the owner of this bag?” They are met with silence. No one is claiming the luggage. Some people look out the window or pretend to fall back to sleep. I want to laugh. Of course no one is going to claim the bag. I remain quiet and put on a face of indifference. The police hold the suitcase for five to ten minutes while scrutinizing everyone on the bus. The bus driver appeals to the police that no one is going to claim the bag and that the bus is already late and needs to be at its next destination. The police frown, climb down from the bus with the driver and squabble some more with him. After another 30 minutes, they decide to let the bus driver board the bus and we’re off into the night, two hours behind schedule. 

A number of passengers start whispering: “the only way the bag could get on the bus without a number is if it was placed there by an employee of the bus company.” Someone theorizes that it “probably was the bus driver, or his assistant, or both.” I’m wide awake and share in the gossip and indictment of the bus driver, who threatened to leave me on the side of the road. I say, “Yes, it was probably him and that’s why he didn’t want to stop at the bus terminal and let a mechanic look at the air conditioning and risk him finding the bag without a number”. A number of passengers nod their heads. We’ve figured it out.

Puerto Iguazú, Argentina

The city located close to the falls is small, around seven thousand, a community of friendly inhabitants who cater to travelers and their needs. It’s on the border with Brazil and Paraguay, with a culture unlike the rest of Argentina. There is a large number of Guaraní natives, the indigenous tribe that has lived in the jungle around Puerto Iguazú for over 10,000 years. People from Iguazú speak a type of Spanish that incorporates Guaraní and Portuguese words and a dialect found only in Northeastern Argentina, comparable to “Spanglish” (mixture of Spanish and English) of California and states bordering Mexico.

Brazilian musicians

Guaraní natives taking a break from selling their crafts

With Argentine currency losing value, Brazilians flock to Argentina for vacations. It’s less expensive than traveling through Brazil. Even though there’s a panoramic view of the Falls from Brazil, Brazilians prefer to stay in Puerto Iguazú. Portuguese is constantly heard on the streets and restaurants. Sounds of Brazilian samba music and indigenous vibes fill the air. Scanty clad beautiful Brazilian bodies add to the enjoyment and allure of the small city. Life shows down, partly due to the humidity and heat of the tropics, some due to the after glow of witnessing the majesty of Iguazú Falls.

Rio Paraná intersects three countries: bottom is Argentina, 

to the left is Paraguay, to the right is Brazil

Indigenous people sell their arts and crafts at low, affordable prices. There are wooden cravings of jungle birds and animals like toucans, parrots, jaguars and monkeys. A few natives paint scenes of the waterfalls. Visitors from all over the world come to enjoy the many natural wonders, whether its hiking at the falls, in the dense green jungle or rafting down crystal clear rivers. Can you stay just a little longer?

Eating a seafood pasta dish to finish the day

Argentina In Crisis; and Indigenous Survival

Salta, Argentina

We finally reached Salta. A temperate climate, dramatic landscape, passionate folkloric music, sensuous gaucho dancing, a distinct cuisine, and colorful indigenous villages in the surrounding mountains contribute to this city earning its reputation as “Salta la Linda” (Lovely Salta). After checking into the Hostal Poste, one of the owners, Ariel and I had lengthy conversations about the current “crisis” in Argentina. According to him, it goes beyond just economics. He eagerly told me that Argentina is at a crossroads with a crisis in leadership, politics, and democracy. 

Salta la Linda is nested in the foothills of the Andes

Colonial architecture creates an atmosphere of being in an

 old world city, forgotten by modern times

Water fountains and hugh statues abound in Salta

Folkloric dancers are not shy; they're colorful & passionate

And they can dance . . . . 

Not afraid to kick up dust while displaying strong rhythm

“No one wants to look past the big lie,” Ariel tells me. He elaborated and said: “To the world it’s reported that the external debt that crushed the Argentine economy is being reduced. The truth is that Argentine banking interests, cronies of the current President “Cristina” Kirchner, are buying the external debt at a premium rate. Essentially the external debt is being converted into internal, domestic debt. The elites at the very top, a minuscule amount of the population, are enriching themselves two ways. They skim a portion of the money initially borrowed from the International Monetary Fund and the World Bank, and then shift the debt to private lenders (themselves). 

Cristian & Ariel (on the right) proud owners of La Posta Hostal

in Salta (highly recommend a stay)

Typical Argentine breakfast: Assortment of breads, rich coffee, OJ,

butter, jam, and the luscious, delectable dulce de leche,a rich concentrated 

caramel spread (all included when staying at La Posta)

The government, the Argentine people, end up paying the debt to these upper classes. It’s a burden on the economy. We have 30% annual inflation. No one, except elites, is getting ahead. We earn enough to pay for basic existence -- housing, clothing and food. I fear this can’t last indefinitely. Something drastic is going to happen. Either our economy is going to crash into a depression or people aren’t going to tolerate and demand change through violent means. We need new leadership. Someone not loyal or an affiliate of “Cristina.” I don’t see anyone on the horizon who fits that description. How are things in the USA?”

Main Plaza in Salta

There are friendly "tourist" police that keep watch &

safeguard visitors to Salta

I rode the cable car to get a bird's eye view of Salta la Linda

I tell him that the average person is satisfied with going to work, resting and pursuing their hobbies or pleasures on the weekends, and not closely watching what’s happening in the rest of the world. That we have our few at the top who make decisions that benefit their interests. He tells me, “As citizens of the only superpower in the world, you have a responsibility to stay engaged in what’s happening in the world.” I tell him, “We also have our lies that we don’t question.”

Gaucho dancers are unique and proudly claim Salta as their home

Gaucho male dancer displaying his traditional clothing 

Special Gaucho unit of the Argentine arm forces

Humahuaca

I travelled and explored several indigenous villages surrounding Salta. They’re located in the foothills of the Andes, not more than 6,000 feet above sea level. The Incas vanquished the existing “Pucará” culture and assimilated them into the Inca empire. The Spanish came next and further changed the culture. Today the indigenous villages have incorporated Inca and Spanish practices. The people speak Spanish with many indigenous words, and have a distinct accent and pronunciation that sounds less like Spanish and more like a native tongue.

Landscape where the Pucará culture survives

One of many highland indigenous villages

Side street in Humahuaca village

These indigenous cultures are a mixture of ancient, remembered practices, Inca rituals and beliefs, and Spanish new world traditions. At Humahuaca village, I met Mario an indigenous nineteen year-old student who works as a guide to help pay his educational expenses. With lots of good humor and laughter he describes the carnival celebration, a Spanish tradition, of the village which involves lots of drinking and wild sexual escapades. The result is that 9 months later there is a “mysterious” rise in the birthrate. He told us of the distinction he had in being asked to participate in a ceremony to honor “Pachamama”, the female earth mother goddess of the Incas. She lives in the high peaks of the Andes and protects her people who worship and adore her. Mario recited from memory an ancient poem that predates the Inca conquest. It was handed down orally from generation to generation. It highlights the value of living in harmony with nature, taking care of crops and animals in order to continue to survive and multiply. 

Mario reciting a poem about native people taking care of the land & animals

Some of the indigenous crafts available for purchase

The village of Humahuaca (looks like parts of Arizona)

Breaded goat meat (no is doesn't taste like chicken);

it has it's own flavor, very gamey

There are many shops and vendors selling colorful alpaca weavings like ponchos, sweaters, scarfs, and head wear. The vendors and other people I encountered were welcoming, talkative and proud to display their crafts, culture and village. On the way back from the village both our indigenous guide and minivan driver took out blue plastic baggies of green leaves and started to chew them. I asked about them and the guide said they were, “Coca leaves, do you want to try some? They have been used for thousands of years to help keep one alert and when other food is not easily available.” He showed me how to chew it. Your break off the stem, fold the leaves into each other, and place on the side of the cheek, chewing and swallowing the juices. He emphasized that, “Coca leaves are not cocaine, which is treated with harmful chemicals to extract and concentrate the active ingredient in the coca leaf.”

 Young alpaca; in the background are mature alpacas 

still with their fur

Bus driver with a blue plastic bag of coca leaves

I followed his instructions. It tasted like grass, not a bad taste. After the juices were secreted, the side of my mouth where I chewed the leaves became numb. I seemed to have a “second wind”, felt wide awake and energetic. Coca leaves are legal in only selected provinces of Argentina. Mostly in the North where the indigenous populations are located. The six hour drive was well worth the investment. It was educational and allowed me to experience new things and ideas, and left me with a deeper respect for highland native cultures, and confidence that they will continue to survive and succeed in the modern world.

Manny de stuffing his mouth with coca leaves in order to

dull the back pain from long distance travel on buses

Humahuaca musician playing an indigenous melody;

I enjoyed it so much I bought his CD

Colorful textiles from the highland villages

Another brightly colored textile

It’s time to challenge myself and cross the Gran Chaco of Argentine to visit one of the natural wonders of the world -- Iguazú Falls. It’s a 24 hour bus ride and should not be attempted unprepared. Crossing the Chaco, consistently the hottest place in Argentina, will take me across the heart of South America. See you at Puerto Iguazú . . . . 

Fresh vegetables of Salta

Fresh fruit is abundant 

Foods of Salta: Fresh trout

Barbecue veggie & chicken skewer

Delicious coconut flan (believe me, you would like it!)