Pilgrimage Through the Americas: Argentina In Crisis; and Indigenous Survival

Salta, Argentina

We finally reached Salta. A temperate climate, dramatic landscape, passionate folkloric music, sensuous gaucho dancing, a distinct cuisine, and colorful indigenous villages in the surrounding mountains contribute to this city earning its reputation as “Salta la Linda” (Lovely Salta). After checking into the Hostal Poste, one of the owners, Ariel and I had lengthy conversations about the current “crisis” in Argentina. According to him, it goes beyond just economics. He eagerly told me that Argentina is at a crossroads with a crisis in leadership, politics, and democracy.

Salta la Linda is nested in the foothills of the Andes

Colonial architecture creates an atmosphere of being in an

old world city, forgotten by modern times

Water fountains and hugh statues abound in Salta

Folkloric dancers are not shy; they're colorful & passionate

And they can dance . . . .

Not afraid to kick up dust while displaying strong rhythm

“No one wants to look past the big lie,” Ariel tells me. He elaborated and said: “To the world it’s reported that the external debt that crushed the Argentine economy is being reduced. The truth is that Argentine banking interests, cronies of the current President “Cristina” Kirchner, are buying the external debt at a premium rate. Essentially the external debt is being converted into internal, domestic debt. The elites at the very top, a minuscule amount of the population, are enriching themselves two ways. They skim a portion of the money initially borrowed from the International Monetary Fund and the World Bank, and then shift the debt to private lenders (themselves).

Cristian & Ariel (on the right) proud owners of La Posta Hostal

in Salta (highly recommend a stay)

Typical Argentine breakfast: Assortment of breads, rich coffee, OJ,

butter, jam, and the luscious, delectable dulce de leche,a rich concentrated

caramel spread (all included when staying at La Posta)

The government, the Argentine people, end up paying the debt to these upper classes. It’s a burden on the economy. We have 30% annual inflation. No one, except elites, is getting ahead. We earn enough to pay for basic existence -- housing, clothing and food. I fear this can’t last indefinitely. Something drastic is going to happen. Either our economy is going to crash into a depression or people aren’t going to tolerate and demand change through violent means. We need new leadership. Someone not loyal or an affiliate of “Cristina.” I don’t see anyone on the horizon who fits that description. How are things in the USA?”

Main Plaza in Salta

There are friendly "tourist" police that keep watch &

safeguard visitors to Salta

I rode the cable car to get a bird's eye view of Salta la Linda

I tell him that the average person is satisfied with going to work, resting and pursuing their hobbies or pleasures on the weekends, and not closely watching what’s happening in the rest of the world. That we have our few at the top who make decisions that benefit their interests. He tells me, “As citizens of the only superpower in the world, you have a responsibility to stay engaged in what’s happening in the world.” I tell him, “We also have our lies that we don’t question.”

Gaucho dancers are unique and proudly claim Salta as their home

Gaucho male dancer displaying his traditional clothing

Special Gaucho unit of the Argentine arm forces

Humahuaca

I travelled and explored several indigenous villages surrounding Salta. They’re located in the foothills of the Andes, not more than 6,000 feet above sea level. The Incas vanquished the existing “Pucará” culture and assimilated them into the Inca empire. The Spanish came next and further changed the culture. Today the indigenous villages have incorporated Inca and Spanish practices. The people speak Spanish with many indigenous words, and have a distinct accent and pronunciation that sounds less like Spanish and more like a native tongue.

Landscape where the Pucará culture survives

One of many highland indigenous villages

Side street in Humahuaca village

These indigenous cultures are a mixture of ancient, remembered practices, Inca rituals and beliefs, and Spanish new world traditions. At Humahuaca village, I met Mario an indigenous nineteen year-old student who works as a guide to help pay his educational expenses. With lots of good humor and laughter he describes the carnival celebration, a Spanish tradition, of the village which involves lots of drinking and wild sexual escapades. The result is that 9 months later there is a “mysterious” rise in the birthrate. He told us of the distinction he had in being asked to participate in a ceremony to honor “Pachamama”, the female earth mother goddess of the Incas. She lives in the high peaks of the Andes and protects her people who worship and adore her. Mario recited from memory an ancient poem that predates the Inca conquest. It was handed down orally from generation to generation. It highlights the value of living in harmony with nature, taking care of crops and animals in order to continue to survive and multiply.

Mario reciting a poem about native people taking care of the land & animals

Some of the indigenous crafts available for purchase

The village of Humahuaca (looks like parts of Arizona)

Breaded goat meat (no is doesn't taste like chicken);

it has it's own flavor, very gamey

There are many shops and vendors selling colorful alpaca weavings like ponchos, sweaters, scarfs, and head wear. The vendors and other people I encountered were welcoming, talkative and proud to display their crafts, culture and village. On the way back from the village both our indigenous guide and minivan driver took out blue plastic baggies of green leaves and started to chew them. I asked about them and the guide said they were, “Coca leaves, do you want to try some? They have been used for thousands of years to help keep one alert and when other food is not easily available.” He showed me how to chew it. Your break off the stem, fold the leaves into each other, and place on the side of the cheek, chewing and swallowing the juices. He emphasized that, “Coca leaves are not cocaine, which is treated with harmful chemicals to extract and concentrate the active ingredient in the coca leaf.”

Young alpaca; in the background are mature alpacas

still with their fur

Bus driver with a blue plastic bag of coca leaves

I followed his instructions. It tasted like grass, not a bad taste. After the juices were secreted, the side of my mouth where I chewed the leaves became numb. I seemed to have a “second wind”, felt wide awake and energetic. Coca leaves are legal in only selected provinces of Argentina. Mostly in the North where the indigenous populations are located. The six hour drive was well worth the investment. It was educational and allowed me to experience new things and ideas, and left me with a deeper respect for highland native cultures, and confidence that they will continue to survive and succeed in the modern world.

Manny de stuffing his mouth with coca leaves in order to

dull the back pain from long distance travel on buses

Humahuaca musician playing an indigenous melody;

I enjoyed it so much I bought his CD

Colorful textiles from the highland villages

Another brightly colored textile

It’s time to challenge myself and cross the Gran Chaco of Argentine to visit one of the natural wonders of the world -- Iguazú Falls. It’s a 24 hour bus ride and should not be attempted unprepared. Crossing the Chaco, consistently the hottest place in Argentina, will take me across the heart of South America. See you at Puerto Iguazú . . . .