Almost “Saved” in Argentina

Crossing international borders

After 15 hours on two buses from Santa Cruz, Bolivia to Salta, Argentina, I’m weary. My right hip aches, cramps in right thigh, eyes burn from lack of sleep, hungry and I need the bathroom. It’s 5:00 AM in the morning and since I’m traveling light, I’m able to be the first one off the bus and in line for Bolivian immigration to get my exit stamp. Walking across the border into Argentina should be stress free and easy . . . . Except!

Walking across the bridge separating Bolivia & Argentina

The border area had lost electricity and I lingered for three hours, standing in line waiting for power to be restored. When electric power came back on and the immigration window opened, 15 to 20 people not in line rushed to the front causing those waiting to yell, “get in line, serve the people waiting in line.” I was overwhelmed and was squeezed out of my position and a near riot broke out, with shouting, pushing, and shoving. The Bolivian military police came over and restored order. One of the police had noticed that I had been first in line (I’m easy to notice since I’m a foot taller than everyone), and brought me back to the front and I received my exit stamp. It took five minutes to get my entry stamp into Argentina. Then the intense searches started.

Hectic bus terminal in Santa Cruz, Bolivia, very similar to

my experience passing through the Bolivian immigration line

My next stop was customs and the inspectors took everything out of my backpack and messenger bag. Even had me turn on my computer to make sure it wasn’t hiding anything. Yacuiba, Bolivia to Positos, Argentina is a main corridor for trafficking cocaine into Argentina. Before reaching Salta, the bus was stopped three more times, passports and identifications closely scrutinized and all luggage emptied and throughly checked. Where’s the drug sniffing dogs? 

Argentine landscape after crossing from Bolivia

All the unpacking and repacking aggravated my hunger. At one of the stops, a food vendor hopped on the bus selling empanadas -- a turnover stuffed with different foods like chicken, cheese, meat, or fruit. He dropped a bag of four sugar frosted empanadas on my lap saying, “4 for 15 pesos” (about $1.50). I asked what’s in them? He responded, “pineapple." I hesitated. I looked over to the Argentine fellow seating across the aisle. He slightly nodded his head, giving an O.K. signal. He bought a packet. I quickly ate all four and my hunger abated. 

Pineapple Empanada, the turnovers are distinctly from Northern

Argentina & are enjoyed throughout the country

Two Mormon missionary “sisters” boarded the bus at one of the stops. One was a twenty year old, brunette, light skin, attractive American from Utah. The other was in her early 20’s, long dark hair, brown skin, long attractive nose and high cheek bones, and a Peruvian from Puno. The American was learning Spanish, the Peruvian English. They were both doing their one year missionary work with indigenous people of northern Argentina. When I spoke English to the American, she said, “It’s a blessing to meet someone who speaks English”. I told them I was agnostic, but respect what they’re doing to help poor indigenous people. The Peruvian “sister” quoted me a biblical passage: ask Jesus to show you the way and give you answers. Before they debarked the bus they gave me a pamphlet written in Spanish about Mormonism and “words of God”. They were joyful, happy and a delight to converse with. I’m still agnostic. 

Next posting we visit Salta la Linda (Lovely Salta), Argentina and experience a culture very different from Bolivia.