Pilgrimage Through the Americas: Honduran Wild West

Olancho, Honduras

“If a pretty girl goes to Olancho and a 'narco' (drug trafficker) is enticed with her, he will kidnap her, even if she has a boyfriend or husband, and make her his sex slave” warns dark, long haired attractive Reyna, one of my hosts in Tegucigalpa. “The narcos are in link with criminal gangs. The gangs initiate new members by having them murder someone in cold blood and cut off their head,” cautions Reyna’s daughter. Marta continues, “We’ve never traveled to Olancho because we hear stories of terror and lawlessness. It’s been compared to the U.S. wild west of the 1800’s, with armed men drunk in the street looking for a fight.”

Reyna hosted me in Tegucigalpa

"Wild west" streets of Olancho

These stories and reputation of Olancho causes me to take stock and question if I should cancel my expedition to this area of green pine trees, crystal clear waterways, rugged mountains with sheer cliffs, and exotic, colorful rare birds. On my last journey to Honduras, out of fear I aborted a trip to Olancho because of hearing similar accounts of chaos and anarchy. It’s the biggest state in Honduras and the least populated. Are these horror stories true? Are they exaggerations based on factual reports of criminality and disorder?

Juticalpa River runs alongside the city of Juticalpa

The US State Department warns Americans against travel to certain parts of Olancho because of areas controlled by drug lords who established drug networks that bring cocaine from South America to the rest of the world. While many locations and towns are listed, there is no mention of Juticalpa and Catacamas. The lost Spanish pueblo (small town) of Villa Hermosa is theorized to be located between these two modern cities. Can my desire to bring closure and rest to the spirit of my long dead relative, Juan de Grijalva, overcome my terror? I’m sure that the threats and dangers of attacks from natives, deprivations of basic needs like food and water, and travel to the unexplored and unknown were much more grave in Grijalva’s time than today. Without risks there are no rewards. With precautions and prudence onto Olancho to fulfill the summon of my relative to help his soul rest in peace.

Entrance to Juticalpa, Olancho: City of Poets & Writers

View from hill above Juticalpa

Cathedral of "Juti": I saw no drunken gunslingers on the streets

On the three hour bus ride from Tegucigalpa to Juticalpa I met Rigo, a Christian campesino who lives in San Francisco de la Paz, located 20 miles north of Juticalpa and in the danger zone. He tells me that six months ago the military came into Olancho in force and arrested the mayor of Juticalpa, the chief of police and their cronies. The mayor was convicted of being the head of the criminal gang protecting the drug network. They are all in prison. The military continues to patrol and the situation has markedly improved. The people have resumed living a normal life, “Gracias a Diós” (Thanks to God) said Rigo.

Modern bus to Olancho

Military police have a strong presence & keep the bad guys in check

Juticalpa is a midsize town of 130,000 inhabitants. The locals are short, dark skin, brown eyes and display more indigenous features than Spanish. Everyone who I’ve come in contact with is hospitable, curious about me, and laugh easily. They are surprised I’m an “American” and speak Spanish. Many are intrigued by the US presidential election campaigns and wonder aloud, “What’s wrong with the US? Why are they going to elect Donald Trump? We don’t like him and his negative comments about Latinos. He sounds like he doesn’t like anyone except the rich.” I educate them that it’s only the primary season, and even though Trump is “winning”, rest assured the majority of Americans don’t like him and he will never be elected president. (My prognostications are worthless. I didn’t think my beloved country would reelect W for a second term).

Boulevard of the Poets: a busy street leading to the Central Plaza (Is that an American flag?)

Central Plaza is the heart of the city

The Olanchanos are welcoming & playful

As I was taking photos of street scenes, this Olanchana stopped & posed

Only the main boulevards are paved, side streets are cobble stoned

Olanchanos are proud of the region & history, ready to share their knowledge

The main boulevard is lined with small narrow stores

I arrived in Juticalpa as the sun was going down and darkness approached. While hiking with a backpack to the nearest hotel the electrical power went out. I was in total blackness. It was eerie and disconcerting to be walking in the dark in a new, unknown environment. Not a good omen to start my quest in Olancho. I remembered from my past visit to Honduras that the power going out is a common occurrence and not to read anything into it. Honduras is still a developing country and cannot be considered a modern country. Having electrical power 24 hours is a luxury we take for granted in the U.S..

The first hotel I went to was a slum. I hiked back to the bus terminal and caught a taxi to a modern hotel (Posada del Centro, $27 a night including a full breakfast and most importantly in this hot, humid place, air conditioning.) The next day, I started my research at the Casa de la Cultura (House of Culture) to find the lost city. Located at the Casa is a library devoted to the history of Olancho and staff historians.

Roof top terrace of Hotel Posada del Centro (recommended) where I worked on this blog hanging from a hammock

Study area of the Casa de la Cultura

Interior courtyard & garden of the Casa de la Cultura

Painting illustrating the history of Olancho with Jesus & Catholic priests at the center

One of the historians, Dario Euceda, graciously gave me an interview. He also shared some rare books on the topic and allowed me to copy relevant pages. In his research he came across the mention of Villa Hermosa. He said it will be a problem to locate the site of this destroyed Spanish city. Sixteenth century Spanish chronicles were not precise in describing locations and distances. He outlined three possible locations: north from Juticalpa in the Agalta Valley, or in the vicinity of El Boquerón river valley east of Juticalpa, or south of Boquerón around San Francisco de Becerra (a small town). Now we know why Villa Hermosa is a lost city. No one knows its exact location. I’m relying on the spirit of my ancestor to guide me to where he wants me to contact him.

This retired historian observed me asking to look at books on the history of Olancho. He came over & inquired about my investigations. He championed my research & introduced me to other writers/historians. He was forthcoming with theories about the location of Villa Hermosa. The spirit of my dead relative sent him to me to assist in my search.

Dario Euceda, historian/poet, shared his time, rare books, and knowledge. I purchased one of his book which he elegantly signed for me.

Carminda Clementina Romero, poet/writer/pioneer/intellectual/historian helped me by reading some of the difficult literature in "old" Spanish and translating into modern Spanish. I am in her debt. She invited me to Tegucigalpa to do further research in the Honduran National Archives (not open to the general public, only credentialed scholars); an opportunity to view 16th & 17th century manuscripts.

The Casa de la Cultura is taking the lead in educating the public about the threats, as well as the new threat of the Zika virus, posed by the dreaded mosquito.

Tomorrow, we travel to the mountain of El Boquerón with Rigo. We’ll hike the river valley and explore. We’ll talk with any locals in the area and see if they can provide leads. It’s very hot and humid, so in addition to my note book and pen I’ll take lots of water and bug repellant. Juan de Grijalva, I sense your presence. Your family is on the way to help guide you to the light.

Edgar, owner chef of Restaurante Hamburguesas (recommended), studied at the University of Michigan & one of the few Hondurans who speaks fluent English. He assisted my research by introducing me to a retired history professor. He is a great contact to know if you travel to Juticalpa.