Untamed, Seedy Tegucigalpa, Honduras

Murder of a brave woman
“They follow me and threaten to kidnap and kill me. They threaten my family. This is what we have to face.” Warned indigenous environmental activist Bertha Cáceres, after being recognized internationally for her grass-roots leadership in fighting against a project to dam up the Gualcarque River. She safeguarded this sacred waterway of the native Lenca people. Thursday morning assassins stormed the house she was in. They broke down the door and attacked her with weapons. Cáceres fought valiantly for her life. Pieces of the assailant’s skin and blood were found under her fingernails. She died from multiple gunshots.

Honduras is a dangerous place. 

Brave Bertha Cáceres championing indigenous rights & protecting the environment (photo from La Tribuna newspaper of Tegucigalpa)

 

The majority of Hondurans were outraged and frustrated. The ensuing riots at the National University in Tegucigalpa closed down the campus until Monday. All the people I spoke with have little hope that the attackers would be captured and prosecuted. Many speculate that corrupt government officials in league with big business leaders were behind the murder. “They have no respect for the common people,” was voiced by one of my contacts.

Rioters at the National University caused a campus closure (photo from: La Tribuna)

My initial research and investigation to find clues in manuscripts and printed documents for the location of the lost sixteenth century Spanish city of Villa Hermosa were frustrated. I planned to interview an expert (Professor José Sarmiento) on colonial history of Olancho Valley at the National University; as well as examine books and articles on this topic at the University Library. My appointment was canceled and the Library was closed.

I implemented my alternative plan. I paid a visit to the Museum of National Identity. It's mission is to research, preserve, and educate the world on Honduran history. While I gathered a few facts and one lead to the possible location of Villa Hermosa, there was nothing specific about this lost city. I think it’s because it was destroyed by an indigenous uprising and perhaps not in line with portraying a positive chapter of colonial history. There was little mention of the enslavement and exploitation of native people. Five hundred years later, indigenous people are still being abused, marginalized, and murdered for standing up for their basic rights.

Colorful walkway leading to the Museum of National Identity

Entrance to the Museum (formerly the National Palace)

Interior corridors of the Museum

Next, I dropped by the National Library located in the old, historic “El Centro” of Tegucigalpa. With the gracious assistance of library staff, I tracked down three books in Spanish on the history of Olancho and in earnest started my inquiry. Four hours later it was closing time and I had to return the books. Because I’m a foreigner I was unable to check out the books. To read the books at the library I had to leave my passport. I travel with a copy and they accepted it as an identification. I left with many solid leads and a probable location for the lost city. 

National Library

Searching for clues to location of Villa Hermosa at the National Library

Historic "El Centro" of Tegucigalpa

Tegucigalpa is big, dirty, squalid, chaotic, and unsafe. Travel to and from the city center involved sitting in traffic, breathing polluted air, and overheating the body. I’m ready to leave this messy city. I did not spot another foreigner in the downtown area. There’s no reason to visit Tegucigalpa for pleasure. Unfortunately, it is the hub of the transportation network and I will have to pass this way a couple of more times. 

Belly of the beast, Tegucigalpa (referred to as Tegu by locals)

Unattractive, ugly buildings in "El Centro" (Note the MacDonald's)

Even the statues are weary of "El Centro"

The military police patrol & provide some security

Most stores have armed guards in front

Streets lining the central plaza were dirty & smelled of stale urine

Next, we travel to the Olancho Valley to secure a guide, supplies, and penetrate the forested valleys and mountains of Olancho to find the spirit of my long dead uncle. They tell me that the mosquitoes are ferocious and plentiful. Yes, I have anxiety and fear mosquitoes. I’ve sprayed my clothes with insect repellant to the point that they have an obnoxious odor. I’m carry a large quantity of Deet mosquito repellant for my body. What’s the point of enjoying life if one cannot face and overcome one’s fears? Olancho Valley (and dreaded blood sucking mosquitoes) here we come!

My hotel was located in a gated neighborhood

All the homes were lined with tall brick walls, razor wire or electric fences

View from my hotel balcony. Tegu is divided between the rich who live in the outer hills & the poor who live in lower areas near El Centro (note the razor wire around my hotel).

Irregardless of how awful Tegu is, one still has to eat. Breakfast at Hotel Casa Las Lomas includes the classic Honduran dish, baleada (reminded me of a quesadilla).

Fresh water Tilapia was delicious (from Casa Las Lomas)