Chihuahua, Mexico

Chihuahua, Mexico, located 250 miles from El Paso, six hours by comfortable bus ($29 dollars), is a modern, industrial city, that gets its wealth from mining copper, silver, gold. It’s a horizontal city, spread out in many directions. There is also a thriving cattle industry. Only the city center (El Centro) retains 18th century architecture -- ornate cathedrals, numerous elaborate churches, and cobbled walkways at the outdoor walking mall “Plaza Libertad” (Plaza of Liberty). I observed no other foreigners in town. All signs are in Spanish, as are TV and radio stations. I heard no one speaking English. I have not spoken English is five days, only Spanish.

People, pigeons, water: sights to excite the senses

Plaza Libertad: many people watching opportunities

Cathedral Plaza: great conversations to be had

Most people look and dress middle-class, for Mexico. Everyone, even indigenous people, had cell phones. The people are attractive. Most have dark skin, but many have green or blue eyes, light skin color, and blondish hair. Spanish influence is apparent. The men are close to my height (5’11’’), wore stylized cowboy boots with long pointed toes, and handsome. The women are pretty, some extremely beautiful, with curves in the right places - no Twiggies, or Kate Moss starving bodies. The current trend is super tight jeans, with 4 to 6 inch heels. It is fascinating to see them maneuver the uneven payment and walkways. No one falls. I stumbled in my hiking boots, tripping over unseen potholes, and unannounced changes in sidewalk levels. There were a few Tarahumara indigenous people, mostly women and children, in the plaza selling handcrafts.

Real men wear pink, pointed boots

Young women smile easily

Tarahumara people making & selling wares

Already working for a living

This is a historical city. Father Hidalgo, the father of the first Mexican revolution, was executed here and is buried in the palace of government. Benito Juarez established the country’s capital here, while fighting the French invasion of Mexico. They beat Napoleon, before the English. The famous, or infamous, Poncho Villa launched his revolution from Chihuahua. He met his end near here through assassination. His home is a museum, where one can view his Swill cheese like, bullet riddled car. There must have been nothing left of Poncho after they machine gunned him to death.

Father Hidalgo died for his beliefs

Poncho Villa killed for his

Yes, that's Abraham Lincoln on the left. Along with Juarez, and Simon Bolivar

on the right, they are considered champions of liberty, freedom, & equality in Latin America.

Fighting for women's rights

Sitting at Plaza Libertad people watching, aromas of roasting corn cobs, car and bus exhaust, stale perfume, hair spray, leather boots, and frying potatoes mixed to alert me that “we’re not in Kansas anymore”. One could hear swoops of flocks of pigeons overhead, yells of “gentleman want a shoeshine, shoeshine”, taps of high heels on brick walkways, shouts and giggles of children playing, and women and men gossiping about family and friends -- “she finally left him” . . . “my wife is not satisfied with what I give her, I need another job” . . .  “I wish he was a better lover”. . . “she’s pregnant again”.

At the cathedral plaza, I approached some older gentlemen for conversation. They were gregarious, laughed freely, and made many off-colored remarks about life, women, and Mexico. I asked Alejandro, what does America and American mean to you, and what are you? He answered, “I’m Catholic first, and then Mexican, because I live in Mexico. We are all American - north, central, south. We are all the same. People from ‘norte’ (north) call themselves American, but they really are ‘Norte Americanos’ (North Americans).” I interjected: aren’t Mexican and Canadians also North American? He responded, “Well yes, they all live in North America, but they do not call themselves Americans. We say we’re Mexican, and Canadians refer to themselves as Canadians.We’re all human beings and our differences are more related to economic class in both Mexico and the United States. The indigenous people are really the only real Americans.”

All of Latin America (including parts of US) was built on the backs of indigenous people

We ended our discussion by me asking him what he was doing here, and he said “I’m 79 years old. I’m killing time, before time kills me. The women in tight jeans keep me alive and remind me why I still want to live.”

Alejandro in white hat: ". . . tight jeans keep me alive . . . "

I enjoyed my stay in Chihuahua. It was a great place to acclimate to Latin culture, for example Spanish language, differences in foods, soaps, water pressure for showers, greetings of people (most give quick kisses on the cheek to friends and acquaintances), and the way people look (brown skin, dark hair). No one threatened me, and I never felt unsafe or at risk for crime. I walked everywhere. The people I encountered were helpful and curious about me, because of my accent when I spoke Spanish. They guessed: Argentina, Brazil, Portugal, other Latin American countries. No one guessed I was from the United States. I told them I was from California, and everyone seem to know where that was located, but did not know Watsonville (my place of residence). They consistently asked if that was near Los Angeles. Many had visited LA, or have relatives and friends who currently live in LA. I will return for another visit to this historical city.

I just visited Copper Canyon. The most magnificent natural wonder I’ve ever experienced. I think more stunning than the Grand Canyon and Yosemite. On my next opportunity to get “connected” to the internet, I’ll give an update. I’m currently in Morelia, Mexico -- a few hours outside Mexico city. Arrived here after a 29 hour, nonstop travel odyssey by train and bus. Next, I’m headed to Oaxaca to try the chile mole. I heard it was the best in the world. Do you want corn or flour tortillas with your mole?

Other photos:

Huevos rancheros, freshly squeezed OJ, fresh salsa: excellent!

As I travel, I'm going to compare this meal with others I eat.

Friendlier police, though still heavily armed

Face in the crowd

Why do the indigenous people of America struggle the most?

There is hope!