New Mexico Hospitality, a Navajo Scout, and Chasing Ghosts

After spending four days in New Mexico, I’m convinced the people from the “Land of Enchantment” are the most hospitable souls in the world. Relatives would not let me pay for accommodations, or use of a vehicle, and feed my hungry body. Whenever a restaurant bill arrived, my caring New Mexican relatives would charge forward and pay. When I insisted that I’d like to pay, I was answered with “you’re family, we always help family, you’ve paid us with your visit”. This generosity and hospitality is a trait of the people of this state. Family connections, assistance, and kindness are the most important values for these fine, unpretentious people.

Manny with aunt & cousins

Four generations of New Mexicans ("expedition leader" made it to New Mexico)

Land of Enchantment -- New Mexico

These mini wild sunflowers grow everywhere

On my last day in New Mexico, I received my second (breakfast) and third (dinner) free meals of our journey. Breakfast was pure New Mexican cuisine -- a delicious huevos rancheros, fried eggs with chile, and “gordita” (thick) handmade tortillas. Do you want red or green (hot) chile? I chose red, to save my taste buds for later (thank you Dobbie & Raye). Dinner consisted of grilled chicken tacos, whole pinto beans, stewed spinach, and sopapillas, a fried puffy pastry tortilla with butter and honey. No leftovers (thank you Judy & Will). I incurred a major debt to New Mexican relatives (thanks uncle Fred & auntie Maggie and their unbelievably generous daughters, and cousin Gloria).

I said good-bye to relatives. Left my mother to visit her sister. I’m without the safety net of relatives. I’m on my own. Extended travel involves long periods of being alone and loneliness. It can take a toll. But, I’m excited to now be self-sufficient and must rely on my own wits, internal resources, physical and mental gifts. I’ve covered about 1,200 miles (a tenth of the 12,000 mile journey) in seven days, and I’m missing home and loved ones. I need to toughen up, focus on the moment, and “go forward” on to the edge of the Americas.

A Navajo Scout

I toured “Old Town Albuquerque” with Russell, a courageous full blood Navajo, who led the way. The pueblo architecture, smells of ancient food like roasted corn tortillas, combined with being led by a Navajo “scout”, transported me to the 17th century. I felt like a pioneer, relying on a Native American like all previous trailblazers. Lewis and Clark were successful because of an “Indian” woman. Cortez, Coronado, Onate, Anza, Kit Carson, every trailblazer to explore the Americas followed Native Americans or the trails they created. If not for assistance from hospitable Natives, no pioneers, no “trailblazers”, no United States. The stories of these real pioneers - indigenous peoples - must be told.

Russell, "I'm Navajo", with cousin Gloria

I asked my trusted Navajo scout, what does “America” and “American” mean to you? Do you label yourself an American? “I’m Navajo”, even though born and raised off the Navajo reservation. Russell remains connected to his grandmother and “medicine men” work cures when his ill. He said, “America and American are new labels that don’t come from Indian nations. I always will identify myself as Navajo. That’s what I am and that’s what I’ll always be.”

Chasing ghosts

Old Town, established in 1706, is the home of over 300 years of dead people. It is recorded that ghosts haunt buildings, ally ways, and chapels. So many deaths by unnatural causes like murder, foreign disease, and violent battles among natives and settlers results in ghost pollution. They want to be heard, without speaking. They need to be seen, yet without a physical presence. They want to be helped, with no ability to ask. So, doors open and shut without explanation. One feels areas of cold on a hot, humid afternoon. You feel a touch, but see no one. They want and need to find rest, but first must convince their maker they’ve left a mark -- a legacy.

San Felipe church in Old Town

Not changed in 300 years

The dead still haunt

Good or evil is not the question. They seek to let us know they once lived, worked, created life, and caused death. They can harm you, or help you. They scare and excite. All they ask is acknowledgement that they once were, and then can rest.

This church bell rang, with no apparent cause or reason - ghost?

Our Navajo scout maneuvered us through this nether world. Thousands of years of experience and wisdom race through his blood and genes. He accepts what modern society can not explain. He judges no one -- alive or dead. He knows that regardless of harm or violence, the Navajo Nation survives. Russell is coming (virtually) with us on our pilgrimage. He will lead, scout, and make safe the path to the edge of the world.


We will need his power. Tomorrow, we pass through the “most dangerous city” in the world, Juarez, Mexico. Hold on to your backpacks.