Exploring Amazonia

Coca, Ecuador

Hail, rain, cold wind, thin air, surrounded by mountains . . . eight hour bus ride later . . . hot, steamy, jungle on all sides, heavy humid air . . . from mountainous Quito down the eastern Andean slopes to Coca, smack in the middle of the Ecuadorian Amazon basin . . . I’m in a different world. After the all night bus ride, I checked into Hotel San Fermin (highly recommend) in Coca at 6:30 AM, and since I didn’t sleep well on the bus, I turn on the air conditioning, jump into a comfortable bed, and sleep soundly until 11:30 AM. I wake refreshed and ready to explore Amazonia.

Hail at the equator? Yes, when you're at 10,000 feet in Quito

Eight hours later: hot, steamy jungle, Napo River in Coca

Over the eastern slopes of the Andes is the city of Coca

At night, the main street of Coca is turned into open air restaurants

I’m walking along the Napo River waterfront and go by a Shuar bar. The Shuar are the fierce warriors who attacked their enemies, cut off their heads, and “shrunk” them to the size of a tennis ball. They earned the reputation of being “headhunters”. An indigenous fellow, a Shuar, who looked a little tipsy stops me and offers me some chicha (a fermented drink made from yucca) in a brown gourd. It’s the community bowl that was being passed around to five or six fellows. He looked happy, with a big grin and was having fun with me. I said, “No gracias”, smiled and moved on. He made a comment in the Shuar language and all his drinking buddies laughed hysterically.

 Shuar billboard in front of the local drinking hole

Shuar fellow standing with blue armed T-shirt offered me chicha

Passing around the community bowl of chicha, 

two fellows on the left look like they've had enough

I’m the only foreigner in the town of 30,000 people. Most look indigenous - something out of a National Geographic magazine - with about a third having the mixed features of Spanish and indigenous. Stray dirty, skinny dogs are running in packs on the streets looking for food. It’s 6:00 PM and I’m having dinner in an open air restaurant, “Asadero” (roast chicken), a soccer game on TV holds the interest of everyone, including the workers. It’s Sunday and many families with children are eating chicken dinners. I smell chicken roasting, sweet coconut juice, fresh rain, car exhaust, diesel from buses going by, fish frying, mildew, and wet dog.

Asadero Restaurant speciality is roasted chicken

Chicken feet soup to start the meal

Over the TV sportscaster, I hear clanging of dishes, sizzling French fries cooking in the deep fryer, Spanish conversations, cheers for the home team, and whispers of an indigenous language. A nine year old kid shouts, “Stefinia, Stefinia” for his sister to come, the family has finished eating dinner. Most men have short buzz cut haircuts, wear jeans, T-shirts, and tennis shoes. Women have on the required tight jeans, or light black leotards, and sandals. Kids wear shorts and tennis. It’s starting to rain again. It’s the third time since noon. 

Short haircuts are very practical in humid environments

Looks like it's going to rain again, overlooking the Napo River

Coca's festive celebration over the night sky 

after local soccer team won the game

When the sun goes down, I station myself at the Napo river’s edge. As the river rushes by, I hear jungle sounds of bird calls, buzzing insects, and leaves swishing to the wind from across the river bank. Francisco Orellana, the Spanish conquistador who was the first person to navigate the entire length of the Amazon River, started his odyssey from these banks. His party of adventurers were looking for the gold of El Dorado and rumored cinnamon trees. They found neither. Instead they fought natives with long dark hair, no beards, and to the Spaniard perspective, effeminate features. They thought they were fighting women warriors, and called them Amazons, from the Greek myths they learned in school. This misconception gave the great river its name -- Amazon River.

There's rich flora and fauna on the banks of the Napo River

Curious "local" checking out the strange "gringo"

Mural depiction of Orellana trading with Amazonian natives

I had the good fortune of meeting Robert Vaca, owner of Hotel San Fermin. A knowledgeable man on the different tribes who roam the Amazonian basin. Besides being profoundly wise, he is versed in the happenings of the world and can discuss a wide range of topics from Islam, Middle East developments, USA presidential politics, and the customs and beliefs of indigenous tribes. I learned from this kind man. I mentioned my interest in wanting to live with an indigenous tribe and experience their lifestyle, cultural practices, and living in the jungle as a native. He worked his contacts and arranged a four day stay with a Shuar family. He warned me that it would be primitive - no electricity, no indoor water or toilet, basic simple food. I was honored that he considered me up to the task. 

Food vendors selling an assortment of food on the bus

Satisfied customer enjoying plantain chips with different sauces

My last afternoon in “civilization” I spent at the water’s edge, sitting under the shade of a tree and imaging what Orellana and his men experienced. The weather is the same - hot, humid, and constantly raining. The fast flowing river and thick jungle is the same. Many of the people milling around look exactly like the ones Orellana met. Transport in the area was the same, by canoes and boats. The differences and changes are far-reaching: motorized speed boats, predominately Spanish being spoken, rock and roll blasting from stores, people dressed in jeans and manufactured clothing, Coca Cola sold by strolling vendors, airplanes overhead, cars cruising by, concrete and asphalt everywhere, ATM’s, cell phones, and tourist booths. Yes, I’ll miss the modern world.

At the river's edge looking down river towards the Amazon River

Main and only mode of transportation, looking up river towards

the Andes where the headwaters begin

Locals on their way home on a boat taxi

You can get fresh fruits, veggies, and even Coca Cola in Coca, Ecuador

I’m very excited about tomorrow’s opportunity to live with the Shuar. There will be discomforts and inconveniences like using the bathroom outdoors in the jungle, clouds of mosquitoes and other biting insects, eating strange foods, no electricity or air conditioning in this humid environment. But, the chance to live and experience what the conquistadors went through, hearing stories and history from a little studied indigenous tribe. The prospect of capturing their oral history, myths, and stories from before the “conquest” is inviting. To live as a “native” and meet the challenges of survival in a wild jungle, I can’t pass up this opportunity of a lifetime. I’m apprehensive about my health. Will I be devoured by mosquitoes? Can my back hold up sleeping on the jungle floor? 

Faces of Coca, Ecuador

More people from Coca

I have the chance to live what I’ve read about in books, some of the things that have impressed and influenced me. How can I not do this? I only live once in this reality. I can do this. I will survive and bring back undiscovered stories and tap indigenous memories. I am after all - an explorer. This may be my discovery. I pray the goddesses and gods are with me, and that I don't lose my head.