Liberty for South America?

Simon Bolivar, The Liberator

The Liberator is dead! His ideas, hopes, and accomplishment of bringing liberty from colonial rule live on. Simon Bolivar, suffering from repeating bouts of malaria and pulmonary tuberculosis, died in physical pain and mental anguish in Santa Marta. After fighting to free large tracts of northern South America, his dream of a united “Grand Colombia” shattered into infighting among elites and ruling classes of what would eventually become Colombia, Venezuela, Ecuador, Peru, and Bolivia. His final public statement was: “If my death contributes to the ceasing of fighting among the parties and consolidation of the union, I will calmly lower myself to the sepulcher.” He is remembered throughout South America with statues, parks, streets, and even a country. The main plaza in Santa Marta is Plaza Bolivar and contains a life size bronze statue of him on his favorite horse.

Statue of Simon Bolivar in the main plaza of Santa Marta

Bed where the Liberator died

I visited the Quinta de San Pedro Alejandrino where Bolivar was staying when he died. I heard numerous birds chirping and arguing with each other, felt a slight breeze rustling tree leaves and carrying away the heat of the day. People there were wandering with admiration, sadness, and respect. There is a sculpture of the dead Liberator based on a death mask made right after his death. It is an exact likeness. On his chest he’s wearing a medal of Lady Liberty given to him by George Washington’s son, who was a great admirer.

Courtyard of Quinta de San Pedro Alejandrino

Face of Simon Bolivar at his death

(Exact likeness based on death mask taken immediately after death)

Bolivar was born into wealth, privilege, and comfort. He died penniless, broken hearted as his dream of a United States of Grand Colombia unattainable. He spent more time on horseback, camping outdoors, and fighting battles than enjoying his ordained life of luxury. He sacrificed everything for a dream - his inheritance, health, stable home life. Death comes to all. Bolivar died an early death so his pursuit of liberty would inspire future generations to safeguard theirs. There is no greater love, than for a person to be willing to die for their belief that human beings should live free.

One can visit Bolivar’s bedroom where he died. His bed is still kept in the condition it was when he inhaled his last breath. While there, I was saddened and reminded of my own mortality. We are here such a short time, we must seek deeds of altruism, love, and loyalty to each other. Our Maker gives us free will and exercising it for good of humanity and nature is noble, rare, and intentional. Viva Bolivar . . . Viva Bolivar . . . Viva Bolivar.

Dining area and furniture where Bolivar ate meals

(Note his bedroom in the background)

Walking through the grounds of the Quinta there are peaceful lime green iguanas, red throat vultures eyeing some dead animal from a tall Ficus tree, and hues of green from the tree canopy cover the walkways. Ten and eleven year old school children on a field trip and retired sixty and seventy year old elders move with reverence as they recall Bolivar’s ideals and sacrifices. Veneration holds the visiter in check as one knows and feels something important in the course of human history happened here - the death of a great man and leader.

Gardens and pond of the Quinta

Even iguanas show reverence to the spirit of Bolivar

I’m mesmerized by the atmosphere that I forget the heat and humidity. Bolivar felt this heat, walked on the same brick stones, admired and smelled the same flowers, touched and sat on the bench I’m occupying. I feel his spirit, hear his words motivating to fight for what one believes, and understand that Liberty is an ideal to be cherished and safeguarded. I will attempt to uphold his ideals.

Bolivar admired these flowers

Bolivar's favorite bench, under a ficus tree, where he dictated letters

and issued proclamations 

Bolivar spent more time on his favorite horse fighting battles,

 than in the comforts of a warm bed.

Leaving Santa Marta

Bolivar continues to inspire Latin America leaders. Current Venezuela President Hugo Chavez evokes his name in his pursuit of power. Indeed his political ideology is called the Revolutionary Bolivarian Movement and he aspires to be another Bolivar. Except unlike Bolivar, Chavez intends to stay in power for life. 

After leaving Santa Marta, I rode the bus eight and half hours to Bucaramanga, Colombia. I encountered a sixty-two year old retired Colombian airline mechanic, Israe, who travels extensively throughout Latin America. I asked his opinion of Hugo Chavez: “He’s shit. He’s eating the Venezuelan economy and stealing from the people. He claims to want to help the poor and working classes, but is enriching himself from petroleum revenues. He’s now a millionaire.” 

Buses in Colombia are modern and inexpensive

Colombian travel buddy Israe with Manny de

Female bus driver, first one encountered in Latin America,

while there are many in Colombia, it's not the case in the rest of Latin America

Israe didn’t approve of the current Colombian president. He believed he was too accommodating with the armed guerillas. He said that even though there are negotiations in progress, “They will not be successful.” He called the insurgent army, “narco-guerillas”. He said that trafficking cocaine was their business and how they made money. He asserted: “Unless the government is going to create a mechanism for them to earn money, they’ll just continue with narco trafficking.”

Israe liked President Obama. He said that he’s going to get all the “black vote” and it’s the “whites” that won’t vote for him. He believed that the USA is “a racist society and white people don’t like blacks, unlike in Colombia." He couldn’t understand why. I shared that the US has a diversity of opinions and while there are some whites that don’t like blacks, it’s not the majority. 

My new travel partner pointed out places and named the different landscape sites we passed like rivers, mountains, and historic sites. He made recommendations and explained the importance or beauty of a place. He said he'd been to "El Dorado" lake, that it was peaceful, stunning, and worthwhile to visit.

Traveling the backroads in the Colombian Andes

(Note the roadway at the right as it climbs into the mountains)

While on the long bus ride, I became hungry and bought some fruit and other snacks from people who board the bus to sell food. Israe encouraged my to buy roasted “ants” from an indigenous vendor. He said they were a delicacy, full of protein, and very flavorful. I bought a packet and shared with him, the bus driver, and bus attendant. They had a pungent earthy taste, unlike anything I’ve ever eaten. I recommend them.

There's a lot of protein packed in that handful of ants

A very tasty treat (in case no one believes Manny de ate ants in Colombia)

Bus driver and attendant were glad to have the ants as a snack

At Bucaramanga, I changed buses for one going to Villa de Leyva, a small village in the Andean highlands. From there, I’ll travel deeper and higher into the Andes and probe for the fabled “El Dorado” lake, reported to be Laguna Guatavita. We’re on the trail of the legendary El Dorado fantasy . . . 

Hearty, delicious soups are a staple in Colombia

A typical Colombian meal: grilled chicken, yucca (with orange tomato sauce),

rice, salad, and plantain