The Unsafe Middle of the World

Quito, Ecuador

It was a one hour flight from Bogota to Quito, Ecuador, and one and a half hours getting through Ecuadorian immigration. Only three of the six windows were staffed. Every passport was manually entered into the database, and then one of the computers crashed - it was a window’s product. Not a pleasant first impression. As I stepped out of the airport, I was assaulted by strong air pollution that burned my eyes. The traffic getting to my hostel was horrendous. Horns blasting, cars creeping along at less than five miles per hour, and we hadn’t even left the airport. It only got worse.

Descending into the yellow haze (air pollution) of Quito

Manuel, shuttle driver who picked me up at the airport, explained to all the passengers that there are two parts of Quito that are of interest to travelers: old historic Quito and new Quito. Historic Quito has narrow cobbled streets, colonial architecture, museums and should only be visited during daylight hours. He said: “There’s a lot of drug use in the area and the users will rob you. The stores close around 6:00 PM, and the people go home to other parts of Quito. The only ones left are the prostitutes, drug users, and thieves. It’s very dangerous after dark.” Northern new Quito has modern multiple lane roads, skyscrapers, restaurants, discos, and “police watching over tourists.” Manuel said: “You still have to be on alert, but it’s generally safe.”

Unfortunate common site, too many libations, in historic old Quito

Never ending traffic, Quito is surrounded by Andes Mountains

that trap car exhaust that pollute the air

Every time I ventured into old Quito, I was warned (by hostel clerk, owner, taxi drivers, street police) to be cautious, don’t wear daypacks, show camera, and only carry enough money for the day in case I’m mugged. There were police and police dogs everywhere. I felt unsafe and uncomfortable, kept looking over my shoulder, and usually observed an unsavory character eyeing me. I always looked the person in the eyes and gave them the “stink eye” - harsh glare that suggested I’m going to hurt you if you even try to rob me. Fortunately, I’m a good six inches taller and forty pounds heavier than most men in Quito. I periodically would stop, lean against a building, and see if anyone was following me. 

Even with a strong police presence, I felt unsafe

Street musician

Street vendors

One of the faces of Quito

I don’t know how Quito earned its “World Heritage Site” designation. Sure there are colonial buildings, plazas, and water fountains. If you want to experience a safe “colonial city”, I recommend Antigua, Guatemala, or Granada, Nicaragua, or even Cartagena, Colombia. Quito is dirty with graffiti everywhere, filthy air pollution, crowded with beggars, and filled with unattractive people - short, squat, disproportional big heads and long faces, bad teeth, and sour dispositions. Every taxi driver tried to rip me off by charging me double what was on the meter.

 Colonial buildings of historic Quito

Graffiti is common on structures

Colonial era water fountain has many uses

Attractive buildings: Where are the attractive people?

I still was able to enjoy some of the museums, restaurants, and met a few interesting locals. The highlight was a visit to the Manuela Saenz museum. She was Simon Bolivar’s love and saved his life by warning him of an assassination attempt and helped him to flee. She was born in and was a native of Quito. Bolivar called her “the liberator of the liberator”. She is viewed as a revolutionary heroine throughout Latin America. In a time when women where not allowed education or opportunities for public life, she learned to read and write, and was vocal and public in her opposition to Spanish rule of South America. She risked her life to express her support for Bolivar and his ideas. After Bolivar’s death, his enemies conspired against her and she died destitute in Peru during a diphtheria epidemic. A sad ending for a great woman and leader.

Manuela Saenz comforting the Liberator. Bolivar's only confidante.

Manuela's book and signature (given to her by Bolivar)

The Museum of Culture housed spectacular gold objects from antiquity. There have been people living in Ecuador for over six thousand years. Indigenous people valued gold as spiritual wealth, tears and sweat of the Sun god. When the Spanish conquistadors arrived, they only saw gold as material wealth. The museum also displayed artifacts from the colonial era, mostly religious icons and bloody depictions of a suffering Jesus Christ.

Indigenous gold artifact

Spanish colonial artifact

Indigenous gold death mask of an elite

Statues depicting lovemaking

I enjoyed my stay at the Casa Helbling Hostel (recommended, if you decide to visit Quito). The German owner, Hubert, and his staff serve up off beat humor and warm hospitality. There are many great Spanish used bookstores throughout Quito. One is located across the street from the hostel. One night I walked three blocks from the hostel to find a place to eat and passed two shady looking characters who were taking note of me. I immediately turned back and ate at a Chinese restaurant next to the hostel. It turned out to be a find. I had a savory delicious shrimp dish at a reasonable price. 

Warm and fun staff at Casa Helbling Hostel

Very good Chinese food next door to the hostel

I spent half a day trying to find an ATM machine that would give me cash. Ecuador uses the American dollar as its currency. I went to five different machines before one eventually accepted my VISA card and spit out fresh twenty dollar bills. The owner of the hostel told me that’s a common problem. Quito ATMs are not friendly towards foreign cards, and forget about trying to use a debit card. In contrast, I had no problems using my debit and credit card in Colombia.

Uncommon depiction of "Virgin Mary" with wings

At the main square in Quito, Plaza Independencia, on a park bench I had a chat with Daniel, a retired military pensioner. He has a son who’s a colonel in the army. He liked the current president of Ecuador and accused the newspapers of being corrupt because they were critical and didn’t support the president’s policies. Daniel said, “He’s improving life for Ecuadorians by bringing foreign investment from China and Iran to stimulate our economy, improve health care, and making sure there’s enough to eat. I know the USA is trying to get in a war with Iran. Our president is making accords with Iran to expand our petroleum production. China is also having good relations with Ecuador. They’re assisting in developing our mineral resources. The Ecuadorian Andes are rich in gold, silver, platinum, and copper. The president says he’s a socialist. I’m no socialist. I say it doesn’t matter what’s his political philosophy, as long as he helps our country, that’s what matters. Ecuador needs to go it’s own way and if it benefits Ecuador to do business with Iran and China, that’s O.K. with me.”

Plaza Independencia

Daniel (on the right) shared his opinions with Manny de

I’m ready to leave this dreadful city. I booked passage on an overnight bus to the Amazonian region, a city named Coca. From there, I’ll explore the Amazon basin and see if I can encounter the infamous tribe of headhunters, the Shuar. I wonder if I should get a haircut first? See you in Coca . . . 

Gold jewelry illustrating headhunting trophies from antiquity